diary of soki and sappho's holiday in the caribbean

Sunday, May 29, 2005

stream of consciousness

isn't it amazing how when on holiday even updating a blog can become a major task? last few days filled with beach, sun, tropical rain, sappho as mosquito-food, sokisappho as local pool-hustling combo, the reggae lounge in st lawrence gap, and the multiple rasta conversations... here's an example:

ras - "hello darlings... "
s or s - "hi"
ras - "where you beautiful ladies from?"
s or s - "amsterdam, the netherlands"
ras - "(giggles) oooh, so you smoke then... i got some great weed"
s or s - "thanks, but not really interested"
ras - "you can be my frien' while you're here in barbados"
s or s - "(laughter) we seem to be getting many offers of friendship"
ras - "are you single"
s or s - "yes" or "no"
ras - "be my girlfren' and i'll love you so sweet"
etc. etc. etc.

escaping the crazy south today to go up and inland to harrison's cave... if one of us is impressed enough, we might just get back online and tell you all about it.

Monday, May 23, 2005

At last, an update

I'm now ensconced in the apartment on the South coast where I'll be staying for the next two and a half weeks. Thanks to Sappho, we have a dial-up connection here, so blogging should be a little more frequent from now on... unless of course the beach and partying become more important...

Lots has happened in the last few days. I spent quite a lot of time at Bathsheba reading on the beach, or swinging in the hammock on my veranda, scribbling notes. I had made a habit of walking quickly past the gang of surfers on Bathsheba beach, muttering a quick 'Hi' in response to their daily greetings and swiftly moving down the beach. But eventually I was accosted by one of the guys who accused me of being antisocial, and I discovered that most of the guys were actually lifeguards... I had assumed they were just hanging out. So I got chatting to the manager of the Barbados lifeguards, who failed to persuade me to learn how to surf, but found out I was keen on swimming. The following day I was taken around the West coast, where he had to check on several different lifeguard posts and deliver paperwork, and at each beach we got out and swam a sort of race with one of the lifeguards on duty. I ended up swimming about 3 miles in total, getting back to Bathsheba around 4pm completely exhausted and sunburnt, but having acquired the new nickname of 'Olympic swimmer'!

On Wednesday evening last week I went back to the Roundhouse and met a Belgian jazz performer who's been living here for 10 years with his Bajan wife, and is building a house on the South coast. We spoke a little Dutch, but his was very rusty because he's been over here for so long.

Thursday and Friday evenings I went to some local events which make up part of the 'Calypso Cavalcade'. This is a nationwide calypso competition, with bands competing over the course of about 6 weeks for the top spot. The competition travels around the country, going to each parish in turn, and the events are always on a local playing field. There are tents with food, drink and music to buy, and tons of local people, but no tourists! I have to say the most amusing part of each evening was the Karaoke competition, where members of the audience were hauled up on stage to murder the newest Calypso hits. One of the most popular songs from St Joseph has a repeated lyric of "I can't fin' me brother", but the Karaoke victim trying to sing it couldn't see the words on the TV screen, so the MC decided to change the lyric to "I can't fin' me glasses"... I guess you had to be there...

Since Saturday, I've had a really nasty throat infection which has kept me out of action. I went to the doctor's this morning and got some antibiotics and powerful painkillers which are thankfully just kicking in. Hopefully the worst is now over and I'll soon be out and about again and able to post some more news.

Monday, May 16, 2005

Here at last - and finally online

Well, it's been a couple of days, and the lovely people at the Roundhouse in Bathsheba have let me use their facilities to get online and make this post..

First few days have been a slow introduction to relaxation, the rediscovery of hammocks, what it's like just to stroll along a beach, without any notion of time, or appointments needing to be kept. Woke up at 5am today, went jogging along the beach, then back to the guesthouse for a slowy lazy breakfast, and eventually back again to the beach.

Today was overcast - the evening brought a swarm of rainflies, which means that rain will come tomorrow.... but for tonight it's still, calm and sticky.. and I'm going back to the bar for another Old Gold and ginger :-D

Thursday, May 12, 2005

2 days to go!

Have decided to wing it and not book any accommodation for the last week of my trip. Seems to be a lot of availability at different places around the island, as summer is low season, so if I need to find a place while I'm out there it should be no problem. Also I have a half-formed intention of taking a boat or a plane to some neighbouring islands for a few days, so I may do that for the last week. By the way, I've added a new link to a site with a pretty detailed map of Barbados - the best one I've found online so far. Car hire is also now arranged - we have a jeep for 25 days. Will see Sappho this evening at my Dutch lesson and will be able to gloat about being there a full 11 days before her (evil cackle). In the meantime, I'm off to buy beach clothes!

Thursday, May 05, 2005

Accommodation!

The plan is crystallising...

I'll be staying at the Sea-U! guesthouse for the first week. This is on the East coast of Barbados, overlooking the fishing community at Tent Bay, just a short walk down the coast from Bathsheba. Sea-U! is great! It's best feature is the garden with that special, springy, slightly spiky Caribbean grass that cushions the feet. The garden and the veranda are dotted around with colourful hammocks - perfect for doing absolutely nothing in, and for gazing out over the Atlantic ocean.

After May 21st, I'll move South to Dover Beach, staying at the lucidly-named "Barbados Vacation Apartments". These are two privately-owned apartments, owned by a friend of mine, beautifully furnished and well managed, but available at very competitive rates, especially for an extended stay... thanks, Lindsay!

Two things still to do: book accommodation for the week from June 7th to June 13th, and book rental car...

You can check out the accommodation mentioned here just as soon as I get round to updating the links.

Wednesday, May 04, 2005

Welcome Sappho!

Ah yes, small detail I forgot to mention... Sappho will be joining the barbadothon from May 25th for a couple of weeks. I really must get around to booking the accommodation...

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

What's it all about?

Well, at the moment it's all about the uncomfortable wind-down from dizzyingly hectic company life to a picture of the Caribbean sea on the horizon. Dip a toe into my more recent history and you'll discover why I'm taking this vacation (a rather unhealthy relationship with work). Plunge into the more distant past and you'll find the reason I'm going to the Caribbean, and more precisely to Barbados. I spent several years in Barbados as a young child, and nearly all of my first memories are from here. Although I've been more or less thoroughly anglicised, and then less or more thoroughly hollandaised since that time, there's a part of me that never quite leaves it behind. I remain a Bajan at heart.

La Pelee de Martinique


La Pelee
Originally uploaded by soki.

last erupted in 1902 and in 1929

All Martinique photos from November 2004

Also from Martinique


Nanarama
Originally uploaded by soki.

'nanas in a bag

All Martinique photos from November 2004

From Martinique


Waterfall
Originally uploaded by soki.

just to get into the holiday spirit...

All Martinique photos from November 2004

11 days to go

still festering in amsterdam, but about to head off for a month in the caribbean, soki launches the barbadoblog...